kelkar museum: one man’s collection of 21,000 objets d’art

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Chess: Ivory; Maharashtra; 18th Century

“Aapko andar aadhaa ghanta hi lagega [It will only take you half an hour inside],” the auto rickshaw driver tells me with full conviction. A little voice inside of me shakes its head and mutters, “Naaaa, an hour. I need an hour.”

Neither know me well. I end up spending two hours.

Remember when we were little children and the whole world was one fantasy land filled with fantastical objects, much like an Aladdin’s cave? The Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum is a manifestation of that fantasy.

Tucked inside an obscure lane in Pune’s Old City—2,500 pieces of a whopping 21,000 objet d’art collection—are displayed over three floors and 42 sections of what was once Dr. Dinkar G. Kelkar’s (1896 – 1990) home. Though much of the edifice is now a museum the family continues to live in a portion closed to the public.

The Collector

So who was Dr. Kelkar? Kaka, as he was fondly known, was an optician by profession, a poet at heart, and a collector by nature. Writing under the pseudonym “Adnyatwas,” his love affair with antiquities, art objects, and history started around 1920. A plaque inside explains this soon led to a lifetime of travels “across the country to obscure villages and tribal settlements, to grand temples and humble huts, to forgotten attics and folk fairs—collecting … always collecting.”

He was driven by a dream to give Indian arts and crafts, which he believed excelled at creating motifs in the mundane and blending innovation and tradition, the recognition it deserved. With an uncanny ability to spot the exotic in everyday objects, he single-handedly amassed his exorbitant collection. Eighty-five percent of it, however, never sees the light of day because of a lack of space.


Chaitra Gauri Cradle: Ivory; Karnataka; 19th Century

The Collection

Mainly dated around the Mughal and Maratha periods, the art objects in stone, wood, metal, ivory, fabric, and clay stand as testimony to the richness of India’s creative and cultural spirit. No two vajris of the 150 piece bevy are alike. Each leather shadow puppet in the 3,000 piece compendium is unique.

Pièces de résistance include the original Mastani Mahal, carefully dismantled and reassembled in the Kelkar home, assorted items once used by royalty such as “erotic nut-crackers” and betel boxes, and an 18th Century miniature painting of Bajirao I. Of no less charm are the exotic animal-shaped Indian musical instruments donated by contemporary classical musicians, carved palace doors, dowry boxes, and armoury made of fish scales and crocodile skin. To be further charmed, you can drool on effigies of the Hindu pantheon and jewellery 200 years old.


Pride of the museum: Mastani Mahal was built by Peshwa Bajirao I for his half-Muslim second wife Mastani at Kothrud, near Pune in 1734. In an effort to save the structure from deterioration and destruction, Dr. D.G. Kelkar, the founder of Kelkar Museum dismantled the palace and reconstructed it inside the museum in its full original glory with the help of skilled artisans.

The Museum

Raja Dinkar Kelkar was Dr. Kelkar’s son. He died at the tender age of seven. Established in 1962, the museum is dedicated to Raja Dinkar in remembrance. In 1975, Dr. Kelkar donated the museum in its entirety to the Maharashtra Government.

In addition to the collection, the Museum also houses research facilities and the Institute of Musicology and Fine Arts.

Wandering through the corridors, over the many floors, I often found myself completely alone. Apart from a bunch of schoolgirls working on an assignment, punctuated with vigorous selfie-taking wrapped in muffled giggles, there was no one else. Every cabinet I peeked into gave me goose-bumps. The combination of quality, creativity, and a date typed on a small nondescript label was a heady one to say the least. I felt I was Alice in Wonderland. 🙂 The penchant for fantasy never leaves us, does it? Whether we are children, or full-blown adults.

[Note: Click on any of the below images and it will start a slide show.]

Travel tips:

  • Address: Kamal Kunj, Natu Baug, Off Bajirao Road, 1377-78, Shukrawar Peth, Pune – 411002, Maharashtra; Tel: +91 20 2448 2101/ 2446 1556; Email: sudhanva@rajakelkarmuseum.com.
  • Museum timings: 10:00 am – 5:30 pm everyday.
  • Admission fees: Rs. 50 [Indian], Rs. 200 [Foreigners]; No charge for differently abled visitors.
  • Photography charges [without flash]: Mobile camera: Rs. 100; Still camera: Rs. 200; Video camera: Rs. 500.

pune heritage walk: lal mahal and shaniwar wada

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Aah, those wondrous figures who live on in the dusty worn out pages of time—the larger than life legends who changed the course of history! I am talking about Chhattrapati [Sovereign] Shivaji Maharaj [top left image] and Peshwa Bajirao I [top right image] of the Maratha Empire.

Though India’s Mughal-centric history has pushed the Maratha Empire to its periphery, it lives on, passionately and firmly embedded in Maharashtra, its founder’s state, and in Pune, the empire’s political seat. Continue reading

global travel shot: a sweetmeat shop owner’s gift to pune

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Welcome to my Pune series.

I decided to start my collection of posts on Mumbai’s less glamorous neighbour with the story of the above deity, Dagdusheth [Halwai] Ganpati. It reflects, perhaps most aptly, the depth of Pune’s cultural heritage in its seemingly commonplace everyday places—a heritage which is felt many times over at a pan-national level. Don’t believe me? Read on. 🙂

At first glance the effigy appears to be merely an oversized kindly Ganpati, Maharasthra’s most loved god, and the remover of obstacles. Covered in 8 kilograms of gold, and insured to the tune of US$150,000, the Ganpati is a devotee’s gift to the city and birthplace of the annual Ganeshotsav [Ganesh festival]. Continue reading

are you a wannabe, could be, or should be travel blogger?

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Ever wonder how you fare as a travel blogger?

Recently I designed an online assessment tool on travel blogging for one of the organisations I partner with. It is a simple quiz. 11 questions. But it helps one figure out where one stands. Are you a wannabe, could be, or should be travel blogger?

Please click here to start the quiz.

And if you wish, do feel free to share your scores in this post’s comments section. 🙂

about me: in a bit more detail

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Compliments of the New Year! 🙂

It is already the 7th of January, and it seems just yesterday that I was contemplating the closure of yet another year and what all it had meant for me even as it paved the way for a sequel. There was a sense of déjà vu in the air.

Except for one thing—a chunk of my holidays was taken up in finalizing my personal site. Tweaking it and polishing it to ensure it was perfect, for me at least. You could call the site my fancy online business card, for a better word. But why a personal site, you may ask? Is a blog not enough? Continue reading

cycling solo from kanyakumari to kashmir

Preface
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“Who am I? The question keeps beating inside of me.” We were sitting by a window overlooking Bandstand. “Everything I do, I think, is an attempt to answer this question for myself. Who am I? You need to be more like me, you know.” Advait was showing me how the Enneagram system worked. It was about two and a half years ago.

This post is about Advait Dikshit’s story. Or to be more correct, it is the story of what gave him some of the answers to his question. Advait is a change consultant. But that’s the outer part. He is also an adventurer.

The person inside is constantly experimenting with his own life—partly for the kick it gives him, and partly to overcome obstacles and, as a result, feel powerful. But we humans are too puny in the face of nature to deride ourselves that we could ever conquer it, and it would be merely feeding our vanity to believe otherwise. And he knows that, deep within. The experimentations, thus, are more of an attempt to find his authentic self, much like most of us would secretly like to do. But are scared of, for the answers that may show up or the awkwardness of experiments. Continue reading