kelkar museum: one man’s collection of 21,000 objets d’art

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Chess: Ivory; Maharashtra; 18th Century

“Aapko andar aadhaa ghanta hi lagega [It will only take you half an hour inside],” the auto rickshaw driver tells me with full conviction. A little voice inside of me shakes its head and mutters, “Naaaa, an hour. I need an hour.”

Neither know me well. I end up spending two hours.

Remember when we were little children and the whole world was one fantasy land filled with fantastical objects, much like an Aladdin’s cave? The Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum is a manifestation of that fantasy.

Tucked inside an obscure lane in Pune’s Old City—2,500 pieces of a whopping 21,000 objet d’art collection—are displayed over three floors and 42 sections of what was once Dr. Dinkar G. Kelkar’s (1896 – 1990) home. Though much of the edifice is now a museum the family continues to live in a portion closed to the public.

The Collector

So who was Dr. Kelkar? Kaka, as he was fondly known, was an optician by profession, a poet at heart, and a collector by nature. Writing under the pseudonym “Adnyatwas,” his love affair with antiquities, art objects, and history started around 1920. A plaque inside explains this soon led to a lifetime of travels “across the country to obscure villages and tribal settlements, to grand temples and humble huts, to forgotten attics and folk fairs—collecting … always collecting.”

He was driven by a dream to give Indian arts and crafts, which he believed excelled at creating motifs in the mundane and blending innovation and tradition, the recognition it deserved. With an uncanny ability to spot the exotic in everyday objects, he single-handedly amassed his exorbitant collection. Eighty-five percent of it, however, never sees the light of day because of a lack of space.


Chaitra Gauri Cradle: Ivory; Karnataka; 19th Century

The Collection

Mainly dated around the Mughal and Maratha periods, the art objects in stone, wood, metal, ivory, fabric, and clay stand as testimony to the richness of India’s creative and cultural spirit. No two vajris of the 150 piece bevy are alike. Each leather shadow puppet in the 3,000 piece compendium is unique.

Pièces de résistance include the original Mastani Mahal, carefully dismantled and reassembled in the Kelkar home, assorted items once used by royalty such as “erotic nut-crackers” and betel boxes, and an 18th Century miniature painting of Bajirao I. Of no less charm are the exotic animal-shaped Indian musical instruments donated by contemporary classical musicians, carved palace doors, dowry boxes, and armoury made of fish scales and crocodile skin. To be further charmed, you can drool on effigies of the Hindu pantheon and jewellery 200 years old.


Pride of the museum: Mastani Mahal was built by Peshwa Bajirao I for his half-Muslim second wife Mastani at Kothrud, near Pune in 1734. In an effort to save the structure from deterioration and destruction, Dr. D.G. Kelkar, the founder of Kelkar Museum dismantled the palace and reconstructed it inside the museum in its full original glory with the help of skilled artisans.

The Museum

Raja Dinkar Kelkar was Dr. Kelkar’s son. He died at the tender age of seven. Established in 1962, the museum is dedicated to Raja Dinkar in remembrance. In 1975, Dr. Kelkar donated the museum in its entirety to the Maharashtra Government.

In addition to the collection, the Museum also houses research facilities and the Institute of Musicology and Fine Arts.

Wandering through the corridors, over the many floors, I often found myself completely alone. Apart from a bunch of schoolgirls working on an assignment, punctuated with vigorous selfie-taking wrapped in muffled giggles, there was no one else. Every cabinet I peeked into gave me goose-bumps. The combination of quality, creativity, and a date typed on a small nondescript label was a heady one to say the least. I felt I was Alice in Wonderland. 🙂 The penchant for fantasy never leaves us, does it? Whether we are children, or full-blown adults.

[Note: Click on any of the below images and it will start a slide show.]

Travel tips:

  • Address: Kamal Kunj, Natu Baug, Off Bajirao Road, 1377-78, Shukrawar Peth, Pune – 411002, Maharashtra; Tel: +91 20 2448 2101/ 2446 1556; Email: sudhanva@rajakelkarmuseum.com.
  • Museum timings: 10:00 am – 5:30 pm everyday.
  • Admission fees: Rs. 50 [Indian], Rs. 200 [Foreigners]; No charge for differently abled visitors.
  • Photography charges [without flash]: Mobile camera: Rs. 100; Still camera: Rs. 200; Video camera: Rs. 500.

pune heritage walk: lal mahal and shaniwar wada

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Aah, those wondrous figures who live on in the dusty worn out pages of time—the larger than life legends who changed the course of history! I am talking about Chhattrapati [Sovereign] Shivaji Maharaj [top left image] and Peshwa Bajirao I [top right image] of the Maratha Empire.

Though India’s Mughal-centric history has pushed the Maratha Empire to its periphery, it lives on, passionately and firmly embedded in Maharashtra, its founder’s state, and in Pune, the empire’s political seat. Continue reading

global travel shot: a sweetmeat shop owner’s gift to pune

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Welcome to my Pune series.

I decided to start my collection of posts on Mumbai’s less glamorous neighbour with the story of the above deity, Dagdusheth [Halwai] Ganpati. It reflects, perhaps most aptly, the depth of Pune’s cultural heritage in its seemingly commonplace everyday places—a heritage which is felt many times over at a pan-national level. Don’t believe me? Read on. 🙂

At first glance the effigy appears to be merely an oversized kindly Ganpati, Maharasthra’s most loved god, and the remover of obstacles. Covered in 8 kilograms of gold, and insured to the tune of US$150,000, the Ganpati is a devotee’s gift to the city and birthplace of the annual Ganeshotsav [Ganesh festival]. Continue reading

art focus – fold/unfold – sonia khurana

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Folding:
Fold, repeat, fold
folding—or doubling—of my thought into yours.
“The inside is nothing more than the fold of the outside”
: announces the fold.

The above lines and a cacophony of text, word, image, and thought spanning nearly 20 years meet me as I walk into the dimmed art gallery in a quiet bylane in Mumbai’s historic Fort district. The halls are shrouded in darkness with jewel-like LCD screens emitting video art of unabashedly personal, intimate, narcissist, and at times erotic conversations of the artist with herself.

I find myself thinking out aloud: this is what it must be like to step into one’s innermost recesses—where demons and angels reside. Where battles are fought between our limitations and desires, and the uncrowned unvetted winners bask in themselves. Continue reading

secrets of south bombay’s parel queensway

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The stories and secrets Bombay holds in its folds behind its crumbling Victorian edifices and chaotic traffic spans centuries. Of all the streets which cover the city in a tangled web, Queensway, a road that leads through Parel in South Bombay, is perhaps the richest in terms of history and also the least to have divulged its mysteries.

A two and a half kilometre stretch, the wide boulevard lined with towering trees contains 19th Century temple courtyards, odes to the Indian Independence Movement, stories of magnanimous philanthropy, and an open air museum of Indian sculpture traversing 1,600 years. And if you did not know, you would not even come close to guessing they exist. Continue reading

are you a wannabe, could be, or should be travel blogger?

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Ever wonder how you fare as a travel blogger?

Recently I designed an online assessment tool on travel blogging for one of the organisations I partner with. It is a simple quiz. 11 questions. But it helps one figure out where one stands. Are you a wannabe, could be, or should be travel blogger?

Please click here to start the quiz.

And if you wish, do feel free to share your scores in this post’s comments section. 🙂